April 25, 2016
Surfing: Love at First Experience
They say that there’s such a thing as love at first sight, well, I will also say that there’s something called love at first experience.
That love, was surfing.
I don’t know how to swim (unless dropping out at level 3 counted), but I absolutely loved surfing. To be fair, the idea of being strapped to your board gave me enough hope that I didn’t have to worry about drowning – foolish thought? Now that I think about it, maybe.
There’s just something about surfing that made me fell in love with it. The whole experience of making your way out into the water, patiently waiting for that one moment, and the challenge of having a chance at conquering mother nature was pretty exhilarating. It’s no easy task and I’ve gained great respect for surfers out there, but the more I fail to ride a wave, the more I want to get back out there.
The beauty of this sport is that even though a wave passes you, there will always be another one. I’ve learned that surfing is truly a mentality – the ability to free yourself from the world so that it’s just yourself, the board, and mother nature. It’s about living in the moment and appreciating everything that is happening at that time. I don’t think I’ve ever been so philosophical with a sport – surfing is a unique one.
Given the chance, I would love to keep learning to surf, spend some time out in warm waters, and putting up a fight with good ol’ mother nature.
If I were to compile a bucket list, surfing would be on that list for sure.
#surfing #portugal #ifellathousandtimes #mothernature #onewiththeboard #ididnotdrown #bucketlist #newexperiences #experience10in10